Hiyashi Chūka

The last thing many people can imagine wanting to do on a hot, humid day in late Summer is to huddle over a deep bowl of ramen, with clouds of meaty steam billowing up and enveloping your face while you slurp on mouthful after mouthful of scalding hot noodles slick with unctuous pork fat.  This of course would be a huge problem for the tens of thousands of ramen-ya owners all across the country, if not for the wonderfully refreshing and reviving noodle dish Hiyashi Chūka which dominates their menus in the more oppressive months.  Sitting comfortably on the halfway-line between a crisp salad and the familiar bowl of soup noodles, hiyashi chūka keeps many of the most popular ramen toppings but adds plenty of crunchy fresh vegetables and replaces the savoury broth with a chilled vinegary dressing, making this the perfect dish for a lunchtime spent hiding from the midday heat.  Like most dishes in Japanese cuisine, the colour and temperature of the food is just as important as the flavour and texture, and in this most summery of noodle dishes they all come together harmoniously to cleanse, stimulate and revitalise the senses.

In our version of hiyashi chūka, we’ve incorporated two of the most popular toppings- crab sticks and cucumber- directly into the chūkamen themselves to create an even lighter noodle base.  We’ve crowned this tangle of enhanced noodles with a crunchy slaw made from spicy radishes and turnips, earthy carrots and crisp nashi pear to add even more freshness, and a springy, knobbly chikuwa fishcake for an extra hit of sweet ocean flavour.  All of that is doused liberally with the bracing vinegar, soy sauce and sesame dressing at the table with extra on the side for those who want a more intense, soupy mouthful.

 

hiyashi chuka
Hiyashi Chuka- cold noodles for a hot day

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Oden

Oden is difficult to avoid in Japan during the colder months, sold from food carts and convenience stores; you often detect the warm, nourishing aroma on the breeze before you notice the huge vat of slowly steaming dashi in front of you, with its bobbing islands of fishcakes and vegetables.  A cheap way of getting protein into you, oden carts are a popular pit stop for salarymen before making their way back home, spicing up the myriad selection of nerimono fish pastes with a dab of sinus-clearingly hot karashi mustard.  You are free to pick your favourite items from the assortment on offer, scooping them into a bowl before having a helping of the sweet, fishy broth ladled over the top.

Oden is a great family style meal to place in the middle of the table and let everyone tuck in.  It always feels like a special dish, bountiful and overflowing with good things, and while it isn’t traditionally a celebration dish, we like to view it as such.  The selection of ingredients in your oden can be changed quite readily depending on what’s available, just make sure you have a wide range of textures, flavours and shapes.

oden
Warming oden fishcake stew

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